Translate

Showing posts with label media bed. Show all posts
Showing posts with label media bed. Show all posts

Friday, 4 November 2016

The Different Types of Aquaponics Systems.

Growing with Aquaponics allows you a great degree of flexibility with layouts, and crop volumes, and there are several systems that you can use to maximise the harvest from your own growing space.



Here I list the different systems that are available, and I try to give a little insight on each.  You may find that one method is best for you, or you may want to incorporate some of each, whichever, they all work.

The types of aquaponic systems currently in use are:-


  • Media Beds
  • Raft 
  • Nutrient Film Technique (N.F.T) 

Without getting all technical, the principle is the same for each system.  Water is pumped from the fish tank, flows into the planted area, and returns to the fish tank, cleaned by the plants which use the fish waste as nutrients to grow. The simple diagram below explains this perfectly I feel.




You will notice that the pump is plugged into a timer, which turns off for 15 minutes in every hour.  This is to enable the growing area to drain and allow air around the plant roots, and is called "Ebb and Flow".  This is the basic set-up, and great for novices. 

An alternative to this is to incorporate a siphon into the grow bed, which means the pump can run continuously. Once the siphon is activated by the high water level, it will drain quickly bringing a rush of air to the plant roots.  A bit of technical skill is required here to install a siphon and get it working, but once it's running you have nothing else to do except to keep it free from debris, meaning you have no need for a timer.

I digress....

Let me explain the different systems to you.

Media Beds.

Media beds, in my opinion, are the easiest to set up.  Take a water-tight container, run an inlet pipe to just below the rim, and make hole in the bottom for the outflow pipe, fill with growing media, and plant it up with bare root plants. It is that simple. The photo below shows my media beds when I initially set them up.




Why would you want to use a media bed?

The reason that I like media beds is that the bed itself, and not just the plants, becomes a large mechanical, and biological, filter. Debris gets trapped by the media, preventing it returning to the fish tank, and good bacteria grows on the media itself, and consumes excess waste, thereby keeping the water really clean for the fish.

The media also acts as an anchor to keep larger plants firmly rooted in the growbed, which is especially useful if you happen to live in a windy area, and have your system outside as I do.

Media beds are great for debutants, as there are not many components, however, it is not necessarily great for maximising plant growth.  This system tends to be used more by hobbyists than for large scale growing.

Raft / Deep Water Culture ( D.W.C )

Picture this as an empty media bed, filled with water and a floating raft on top. 

The raft is typically a large sheet of styrofoam, around one inch thick, with holes cut into it of around two inches, at evenly spaced intervals all over the sheet.  Seedlings are planted into net pots, filled with expanded clay or coir, and these fit into the holes.

The photo below was my first attempt, although I need to cut more holes, and larger, but you get the general idea. ( I need to use slightly thinner styrofoam too! )



You can see that the raft is floating on the surface of the inner container.  

As opposed to media beds, in order to avoid water quality problems, additional filters would be required in the system, to separate the solid wastes and to stop them returning to the fish tank.

The raft system allows for increased, or mass, production and really offers a solution for food sustainability, and many different crops can be grown in this system.

Aquaponic raft systems are fairly straightforward to set up, and not too expensive.  Additionally, once a harvest has been done, the styrofoam boards can be re-used for the next crop.


By Bryghtknyght (Own work) [CC BY 3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

Whether you want small scale, or large, the raft system is probably the easiest to operate, maintenance is simple, and productivity is excellent.

Nutrient Film Technique (N.F.T)

Nutrient Film Technique is a method used in hydroponics, that has been carried over to aquaponics.  Plants are grown in channels such as rainwater pipes, or gutters.  As in the raft method, holes are cut into the pipes and the plants grown in net pots containing a small amount of substrate.  The water flow is continuous and thin, allowing for plenty of oxygen to flow around the plant roots.  

This system is really only beneficial for growing shallow-rooted crops such as lettuce and greens, and attention should be paid to clogging in the pipes.  The best size pipes to use are four inches in diameter, as this reduces clogging risk, any smaller and maintenance time will be increased.


By Ryan Somma (Leafy Greenhouse) [CC BY-SA 2.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

The Nutrient Film Technique does allow for growing a lot of produce in a small area, because not only can the pipes be laid horizontally, but they can also be placed on a frame, one above the other, allowing you to use vertical space. Alternatively, the can be suspend vertically, with the water introduced at the top, and drained out of the bottom, and back into the system. Take a look at the two videos below.







So, there you have it.  The three systems employed in aquaponics. It's a very brief outline, and I hope it proves useful to you.

I Love Aquaponics.





Sunday, 31 July 2016

How to Grow Swiss Chard in your Aquaponics System


How to Grow….. 


Swiss Chard                                                                                                  

 in your aquaponics system...




BASIC REQUIREMENTS

Plant name : 

Chard - Beta Vulgaris


Situation 

Full sun.  If temperatures are going to exceed 26°C then shading is recommended.


Size ( h x w ):

30 - 60cm x 30 - 40cm


Spacing between plants : 

30cm


Temperature requirements : 

Optimum: 16 - 24°C  


pH : 

6.0 - 7.5


Germination time :

From seed, expect germination in 4 - 5 days, with temperatures around 25 - 30°C


Aquaponic method : 

Nutrient Film Technique (NFT), Deep Water Culture (DWC), Media beds.


HOW TO GROW


Growing in Aquaponic systems : 

Being easy to grow, Swiss Chard is extremely well suited to growing in an Aquaponics System, and as an additional plus, it is fairly bolt-resistant, making it a better choice than plants such as kale, for example.  Nutrient uptake is reasonably moderate, using mainly nitrates for the leaf growth. Potassium and phosphorous requirements are low. Its high nutrient content, and fast growth rate, make it extremely popular in aquaponics. 


Growing Conditions : 

Swiss chard is traditionally a late-winter/spring crop, and only needs temperatures of 5°C for growth.  That said, if you live in an area where the summer temperatures are reasonably mild, you can grow Swiss Chard in full sun.  Grow indoors, or under a shading net if temperatures regularly surpass 25°C. 

 

Growing Instructions : 

Swiss chard comes in various colours, ranging through white, lime green, red and yellow.  Sow Swiss chard seeds at any time between March and Autumn, remembering to cover later sown seeds to speed up germination.  Thin out the seedlings once they are 2 - 3cm tall, and leave 30cm between plants. Thats all you need to do. Really easy.


Harvesting : 

12 weeks after sowing Swiss Chard can be harvested by using a sharp knife to cut the external leaves, taking care not to damage the centre of the plant where the new growth comes from.


ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Pruning :

N/A


Pests : 

Butterflies, Moths and Leaf miner.  Covering with fleece or mesh when the plants are young will help with pest prevention.


Diseases :

No real issues.


IF YOU HAVE ANY ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ABOUT THIS PLANT, PLEASE LEAVE A COMMENT BELOW. THANK YOU.                                                 


I Love Aquaponics....

photo credit: So that's why it's called rainbow chard... via photopin (license)


Friday, 29 July 2016

How to Grow Tomatoes in Your Aquaponics System


How to Grow….. 


Tomato                                                                                                  

 in your aquaponics system...




BASIC REQUIREMENTS

Plant name : 

Tomato - Solanum lycopersicum


Situation 

Sun or very light shade


Size ( h x w ):

60 - 200 cm x 60 - 90cm


Spacing between plants : 

40 - 60cm


Temperature requirements : 

Optimum: 20 - 25°C  Fine at: 18 - 30°C


pH : 

5.5 - 6.5


Germination time :

From seed, expect germination in 4 - 6 days, with temperatures around 20 - 30°C


Aquaponic method : 

Deep Water Culture (DWC), Media beds.



HOW TO GROW


Growing in Aquaponic systems : 

Fantastic plant for growing in an aquaponics system, of course, you must remember to give them some sort of support. Tomatoes are nutrient-hungry plants, with a taste for potassium, so be careful to plant according to the amount and size of fish that you have in your system.  At the younger stage of the plants life, it will be happy for a little more nitrogen to enable good, vegetative growth.  Once the flowers start arriving, then they need potassium to ensure good flowering and fruit production.


Growing Conditions : 

Plant your tomatoes in full sun, although they will manage in very light shade.  They love warm temperatures, and night-time temperatures of 13-14°C encourage fruit-set. They don't like hot drying winds, so some form of protection is advised if you live in areas where they are likely to suffer from wind-scorch.

 

Growing Instructions : 

Before you plant your tomatoes, which are ready for planting when they are 10 - 15cm tall, make sure you put in your plant supports so as to not disturb the root structure later on.  In aquaponics, it is not always easy to insert canes into the grow media, so try finding a way of tying string from above the grow bed, and growing the tomato plant up the string. (Just tie the string around the base of the plant). Do not plant your tomatoes outside until night-time temperatures level out at a minimum of 10°C.

If you have bush tomatoes you can leave the side shoots to grow. These will have clusters of flowers at the ends which will bear fruit.

Vine tomatoes, are grown as single stem plants, and you will need to pinch out the side shoots that appear between the leaf and main stem.  Remove the apical tip two leaves above the fourth truss of tomatoes (outdoor plants), or above the sixth truss if you are growing in a greenhouse. All the fruits should be growing out from the main stem.  Remove bottom leaves if required to control disease, otherwise leave them on.  There is no need to remove unless you absolutely have to.

You don't need to help outdoor tomatoes to pollinate, but indoor grown ones will need either a gentle shake to release the pollen, or a gentle misting on the flowers.



Harvesting : 

When the fruits are firm and fully coloured they are ready for picking, and will have the best flavour.  Keep the stalk on to keep them fresher for longer. If you pick un-ripened fruit, they will ripen indoors if kept in a warm, dark place. 


ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Pruning :

N/A


Pests : 

Aphids, Cutworms, Flea Beetles, Hornworms, Nematodes, Whitefly


Diseases :

Damping Off in seedlings, Fusarium Wilt, Mosaic Virus, Verticillum Wilt.



Environmental conditions :


Blossom End Rot, Catfacing, Cracking and Sun Scald.



IF YOU HAVE ANY ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ABOUT THIS PLANT, PLEASE LEAVE A COMMENT BELOW. THANK YOU.                                                 


I Love Aquaponics....

photo credit: Fall Colors via photopin (license)


Amazon does aquaponics...